Ishwardi’s century-old Benarasi industry faces crisis

Ishwardi’s century-old Benarasi weaving industry is facing a severe crisis as cheaper I machine-made sarees, rising production costs and labour shortages have driven most factories out of business.

Cheaper Indian sarees have captured much of the market, leaving local artisans without work.

Most factories have closed, putting the century-old weaving industry at risk of disappearing.

Weavers said many factory owners failed to establish units at the complex, while several existing factories later closed because of high production costs, labour shortages and market competition.

A weaver said, “There used to be around 1,000 looms here. Now the number has fallen to 40-50. With government assistance, easy instalment facilities and better market support, we could revive the industry. The younger generation is also no longer interested in this profession. If the situation continues, the industry may disappear within a few years.”

Businessman Md Javed Khan said, “My father came here from Benaras and started this business. But because of the dominance of Indian sarees, we can no longer keep the looms running. Rising production costs have also made it difficult to retain artisans.”

Saree trader Wakil Khan said, “Sarees can be produced quickly and cheaply on machines in India. In contrast, it takes us much more time and labour to produce a saree by hand. Our production costs are therefore higher, making it difficult to survive the competition.”

Artisans and traders say cheaper sarees produced on automated machines in India have reduced demand for locally handwoven Benarasi sarees. Machine-made sarees can be produced faster and at a lower cost, while handwoven sarees require more time and labour, making it difficult for local producers to compete on price.

To institutionalise the industry, the Bangladesh Handloom Board established the country’s second-largest Benarasi Palli in 2004 on 5.5 acres of land in Fatemohammadpur at a cost of Tk 2.15 crore.

Ninety plots were allocated to 90 weavers, with payment allowed in instalments over 20 years. Of these, 70 plots measured three decimals each, while 20 measured five decimals each.

However, factories were established on only seven of the 90 plots, and only a few remain operational.
The once-promising complex has gradually become largely deserted.

The Benarasi Palli once echoed with the sound of looms from morning until late at night. Several thousand artisans worked in more than a hundred weaving units. Today, that vibrant scene has disappeared, with only a handful of factories struggling to survive.

The history of Ishwardi’s Benarasi Palli dates back more than a century. During the British period, artisans who came from India settled here and developed the weaving industry by producing Katan and Benarasi sarees. The craft was passed down through generations.

Those involved in the industry say government support is essential to save the sector. They call for modern technology alongside traditional weaving, easy access to loans, artisan training, affordable raw materials and effective protection of the domestic market. They also want greater promotion and market expansion for locally produced Benarasi sarees.

Weavers and artisans fear that without urgent action, the century-old industry may disappear, along with the livelihoods of many families dependent on it.