‘Bakarkhani’ Old Dhaka’s sweet heritage

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Staff Reporter :

Bakarkhani or baqarkhani, also known as bakar khani roti, is a thick, spiced flatbread that originated in modern-day Bangladesh during the Mughal period. With roots in Old Dhaka, the bread has developed several regional variants throughout the Indian subcontinent.
It is a very common breakfast snack in Old Dhaka, where it is also the most popular. Outside of Dhaka, Bakarkhani is prepared on certain Muslim religious festivals and is now popular as sweet bread across the subcontinent.
The story begins with Agha Baker, who arrived in Bengal as a slave from Turkistan. Recognizing his potential, the then Nawab of Bengal, Murshid Quli Khan, adopted Agha Baker and provided him with education and training in martial arts. Agha Baker soon became proficient and was appointed as the Faujdar of the Chittagong region.
During this time, Agha Baker fell in love with a dancer named Khuni Begum. However, his love faced a formidable obstacle in Zainal Khan, the son of the Wazir Jahandar Khan and the city Kotwal. After Khuni Begum rejected Zainal Khan’s advances, he abducted her and fled to South Bengal. Agha Baker pursued and defeated Zainal Khan, but Zainal Khan then conspired against him, falsely accusing Agha Baker of murder.
The Wazir, deceived by his son’s false claims, sought justice from the Nawab. Agha Baker was sentenced to death and thrown into a tiger’s den.
In a heroic feat, Agha Baker killed the tiger and emerged victorious. However, the false news of Zainal Khan’s death had already spread, leading the Wazir to kill his own son in a fit of rage. Before dying, Zainal Khan killed Khuni Begum.
The town of Bakerganj, now in Barisal district, was named after Agha Baker. In memory of his beloved, he created a special dry bread, combining his name with Khuni Begum’s to call it “Bakerkhani,” which later became known as Bakarkhani.
This historical account is documented by the renowned Old Dhaka author Nazir Hossain in his book “Legendary Dhaka.”
According to folklore, the first Bakarkhani shop in Old Dhaka was established near Lalbagh Fort. Gradually, these shops spread to areas like Chankharpul, Agha Nawab Dewri, Kotwali, Chawkbazar, Bangshal, Hazaribagh, and Sutrapur. Numerous Bakarkhani shops have also emerged along both sides of Nazimuddin Road in Old Dhaka. However, the best Bakarkhani can still be found in Lalbagh. Bakarkhani with tea for breakfast is a common combination for people in Old Dhaka. But if you are a resident of Banani, and want to taste the Puran Dhaka flavour, your options are very limited.

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