Sylhet’s traditional chungapura pitha nears extinction

Moulvibazar Correspondent :

The ancient Sylheti tradition of Chungapura Pitha is now on the verge of disappearing. In rural households, preparations for Chungapura are rarely seen anymore. As a result, the sight of burning straw (khorkuto) through the night for making Chungapura is becoming a thing of the past.

Once, fish fairs were held in the local markets. People would buy fish from these fairs or catch them from the haors and rivers varieties like Rui, Katla, Chital, Boal, Pabda, Koi, and Magur. These fish, lightly spiced and fried (known locally as machh biran), were then used to prepare Chungapura Pitha, which was considered one of the most distinctive culinary traditions of Sylhet and Moulvibazar.

Those days, however, are gone. The main ingredients for making Chungapitha – Dholu bamboo and Binni rice (Birin rice) are now in very short supply. Cultivation of these ingredients is also declining in many areas.

In Moulvibazar’s Borolekha region, Paharia hills, Lathitila in Juri, Rajnagar, Kamalganj, and other high and low hills, tea gardens, and Chungi villages of Juri, Dholu bamboo used to be abundant. However, due to deforestation caused by bandits, land grabbers, and illegal hill encroachers, the forests have been depleted, and Dholu bamboo has largely disappeared. A limited quantity can still be found in some hillocks, but its scarcity has driven up market prices.

Chungapitha cannot be made without Dholu bamboo because this bamboo contains a unique oily substance that prevents the bamboo from burning over fire. Its high resin content ensures that while the outer bamboo does not burn, the pitha inside cooks quickly from the heat. In some regions, the pitha is prepared using Binni rice, milk, sugar, coconut, and rice flour. Once cooked, the pitha easily separates from the bamboo, much like a candle. Preparing Chungapitha requires a substantial amount of straw (nera) as fuel.

Pintu and Pranit Debnath, who came to Munshibazar in Kamalganj to collect Dholu bamboo for pitha preparation, said, “These materials are not always available. During Poush Sankranti (mid-January), only a very small quantity appears in the market. About 10-15 years ago, it was plentiful.

Now, with the passage of time, it is gradually disappearing. When the bamboo appeared in the market, my family asked me to collect some for making pitha. I visited a few markets but could not find much. Only a small quantity was available in Munshibazar, which I managed to get.”

Sazzadul Haq Swapon, a writer and poet from Kamalganj, said, “If you take a little patience to unwrap it, you will find an exquisitely delicious pitha. Waiting a little while to enjoy it brings out the true flavour. Chungapura Pitha is one of Sylhet’s oldest and most cherished traditional delicacies.

But Dholu bamboo, essential for its preparation, is now very scarce. The tradition, once so prevalent, is on the brink of extinction.”