Mushtaq Ahmed Shawon :
Jamdani, a symbol of pride and a part of Bangladesh’s rich heritage, has been a staple of traditional fashion. Once reserved for affluent families, its demand has now expanded to the middle class and general population. Recognized as a Geographical Indication (GI) product by UNESCO on December 28, 2020, Jamdani saris from Sonargaon, Narayanganj, are celebrated for their intricate craftsmanship.
These exquisite saris are not only cherished within Bangladesh but are also exported abroad. However, in recent years, the popularity of Jamdani has dwindled due to a lack of skilled artisans, insufficient capital, and competition from Indian-made saris. As a result, many artisans and weavers associated with this craft are struggling to sustain their livelihoods, holding on to the industry with great difficulty.
The COVID-19 pandemic and other crises had slowed sales until 2022, when a brief resurgence brought back customers from Dhaka and across the country. Sales surged, bringing hope to the Jamdani community. Unfortunately, 2023 saw sales stagnate again, and many weaving houses closed due to a shortage of skilled labor and financial constraints.
The influx of Indian saris into the market further destabilized Jamdani’s market position. Prices have dropped, and the lack of new entrants into the trade has led to fewer artisans and sales centers in numerous villages of Sonargaon. A visit to the weaving hubs like Chourapara, Musharchar, Baishteki, Alamdicharbhula, Malipara, Sadipur, and many more reveals a significant decline in activity.
In Baishteki village, weaver Shamim Mia shared, There’s no work. People don’t want to join this trade anymore. Fake Indian Jamdani saris have flooded the market, making it hard to sell at fair prices. Shamim, who has been in this trade for 25 years, highlighted the meager wages. It takes a week to make a sari worth 1,200 Taka, and we can only produce four such saris in a month. A 20,000 Taka sari takes three weeks to complete. Due to poor wages, many artisans have left the trade. Those of us remaining are tied to this work because we know no other trade.
Abdul Barek, a craftsman at a Jamdani house, echoed these sentiments. I’ve been doing this for 35 years, inspired by my relatives. We have 10 artisans here, all veterans in this craft. While earlier wages sufficed for daily life, now it’s a struggle. The younger generation isn’t interested in learning this trade.
Shukkur Ali, a factory owner in Malipara, expressed his concerns: Bangladesh’s traditional Jamdani saris are nearing extinction. A time will come when these saris will become so valuable that artisans will be scarce, and their equipment will lie in museums. Nobody wants to pursue this profession anymore.
Tamim Ahmed Dipto, owner of Tushar Jamdani House, based in the Bangladesh Folk and Craft Foundation, shared insights about pricing. Jamdani saris range from 1,000 to 70,000 Taka Online platforms have significantly reduced customer footfall. Five years ago, demand was high, but now the industry is on the brink of collapse.
Mohammad Salauddin, president of the Sonargaon Jamdani Artisans Association, stated that the industry is under threat due to a lack of skilled craftsmen. Young people are turning away from this profession. Despite the challenges, Jamdani is still celebrated worldwide. Addressing issues like skilled labor shortages, lack of capital, and middlemen exploitation could revitalize the craft. Government support is crucial to saving this industry.
